Nutrient supply for own-root roses – feeding – PharmaRosa®

Nutrients: timing, dosage, results

For roses, a good feeding programme is all about timing: a starter feed in spring, top-ups between flowering flushes, then a potassium-focused regime and nitrogen stop at the end of summer. Here you’ll find CRF and liquid protocols with indicative doses (worked in under the mulch), problem signs (overfeeding, deficiency symptoms), and a separate section for pots and public plantings. Do you tend to overfeed, or are you more worried about underfeeding?

Quick basics

  • Basic rule: feed on moist soil, then water in thoroughly.
  • Season start: spring CRF (3–4 months); top up after the first main flush.
  • Late summer: potassium-focused; no nitrogen after mid-August.
  • Ring: scatter in a ring 30–40 cm out from the stem, not directly against it.
  • Mulch: fertiliser should go under the mulch – for more even release.

Own-root roses – good regenerative capacity; excessive nitrogen gives lush but weak tissue.

Skip to principles →

Principles & materials

  • CRF (controlled-release): 15-9-12 (+Mg+micro) or 16-8-12 for spring; 10-7-20 / 12-8-16 for summer.
  • Liquid feeds: rose fertiliser through the season (every 2–4 weeks) – ideal for quick corrections.
  • Organic: compost, worm castings, seaweed extract, biochar/zeolite – to improve soil structure and buffering.

As nutrient uptake depends on pH, test regularly: Soil & pH.

Skip to timing →

Timing

  • Spring: from bud swell, work a season-start CRF into the soil.
  • After the first main flush: top up (CRF or liquid).
  • End of summer: potassium-focused (to help wood ripen).
  • Autumn: no nitrogen – it encourages frost-tender growth.

The usual “last nitrogen” cut-off is between about 10–15 August, depending on your climate zone.

Skip to CRF dosage →

Dosage – CRF (slow-release)

Type Indicative dose / plant Notes
Mini / Patio 15–25 g In pots, preferably mixed into the compost
Hybrid tea / Floribunda 30–50 g Scattered in a ring and lightly worked in
Shrub / English 40–70 g Bigger bush = higher dose
Groundcover 25–40 g Spread evenly over the surface
Climber / Rambler 50–80 g Aim at the root zone at the base of the support
  • Method: fertiliser should go under the mulch; lightly work it in 5–8 cm deep, then water in.
  • Soil moisture: do not apply to dry soil – water beforehand if needed.

Skip to liquid feeds →

Dosage – liquid

  • Frequency: every 2–4 weeks in the season; use more sparingly in heatwaves.
  • Onto the soil: always apply to pre-moistened soil (for better uptake).
  • Rate: follow the manufacturer’s label; in containers, use a weaker solution.

Combined with mulch, you get more even water and nutrient management: Mulching.

Skip to organic supplements →

Organic supplements

  • Compost: 2–3 cm layer under the mulch; improves structure and soil life.
  • Worm castings: rich microflora; good at planting and as a surface dressing.
  • Seaweed extract: improves stress tolerance (after heat or drought).
  • Biochar / zeolite: improves buffering, holds water and nutrients (use in small amounts).

pH dependence and rates: Soil & pH.

Skip to pots/terrace →

Pots / terrace

  • CRF in the mix: 2–5 g/L of compost (added gradually), refresh the top 5–8 cm each year.
  • Liquid feeds: weaker solution, but more often; don’t leave water standing in saucers.
  • Growing medium: open, airy mix (soil + compost + perlite/pumice); pH changes faster → test more often.

Positioning: Pots / terrace • Watering: Watering.

Skip to public and green spaces →

Public and green spaces

  • Protocol: spring CRF worked in, summer potassium top-up; liquid feeds only when needed.
  • Compost: 2–3 cm under the mulch each year; apply uniformly at bed/plot level.
  • Operations: check soil moisture before mechanical application; water in via irrigation system.

Positioning: Public and green spaces.

Skip to signs & problems →

Signs & troubleshooting

  • Chlorosis (yellow leaves, green veins): iron deficiency / high pH → acidify, add iron.
  • Thin shoots, very dark green leaves: too much nitrogen → cut back, shift towards potassium.
  • Scorched leaf edges: overdose / dry compost → thorough watering, temporary pause.
  • Poor growth despite good watering: low organic matter → add compost.

Always feed on moist soil; avoid applications during heatwaves and in full blazing sun.

Skip to tools →

Tools you’ll need

  • CRF rose fertiliser
  • Liquid rose fertiliser
  • Compost
  • Worm castings
  • Biochar / zeolite
  • Watering can / Hose

FAQ

Can I fertilise before rain?
Yes, before moderate rainfall it can be beneficial; avoid doing it before storms because of leaching.
Which is better: CRF or liquid?
They have different roles: CRF provides the baseline, liquid feeds give quick corrections. Together they give the most even results.
When should I start again in spring?
Around bud swell (according to your local weather), then top up after the first main flush.

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